For the traditional holiday reveler, New Year’s marks the end of a three-month frenzy of turkey gluttony, gift-giving mania, and Champagne celebration. While many are secretly glad that the indulgent stretch has ended and return to their regular routines, in New Orleans, we’re just getting started. Twelve days after Christmas begins an even more joyous outpouring of music, food, and of course, libations: Carnival Season.
A costumed member of the Joan of Arc Parade lights the way by lantern (Photo by Kim Welsh)
For the Mardi Gras newbie, Carnival Season is the buildup to Mardi Gras Day, replete with parades, king cakes, and costumed locals. It officially begins on Twelfth Night, the twelfth evening after Christmas, and runs full throttle to Fat Tuesday – or Mardi Gras Day to locals – this year falling on February 21, 2012.
Kickoff your Carnival Season right with the Joan of Arc Parade, a reverent way to celebrate this infamous day, and the Phunny Phorty Phellows, a more typical, boisterous welcoming of Mardi Gras. As always, there’s something in New Orleans for everyone!
Joan of Arc Parade: Joan of Arc’s 600th birthday falls on Twelfth Night, and what better way for medieval legacy to meet Mardi Gras celebration with a Joan of Arc Parade? Beginning at Conti Street and Decatur Street at 6 p.m., the parade winds its way through the French Quarter and finishes at the Joan of Arc Statue on Decatur St. and St. Philip St.
Parade participants will be cloaked in lavish medieval costumes and handing out 600 white candles (all individually numbered) for onlookers to light the way. They’ll also bestow sixteen bejeweled swords to a lucky few, hand painted Joan of Arc ornaments, Joan of Arc handcrafted dolls, and 600 other gorgeous pieces of memorabilia.
This is a kid friendly event, so bring the whole family!
The Phunny Phorty Phellows streetcar route
Phunny Phorty Phellows: Every year on Twelfth Night I find myself taking an after work jog down the St. Charles streetcar line, and find myself suddenly racing alongside a streetcar full of jolly costumed riders crying out “It’s Carnival Season!” as they toss me handfuls of sparkling Mardi Gras beads.
Make no mistake, this group of rowdy party starters is the Phunny Phorty Phellows: 40 or so fellas who are New Orleans’ unofficial messengers of Mardi Gras. Every Twelfth Night, they board a streetcar still decked out with holiday decorations and barrel down to Lee Circle yelling out, “It’s Carnival Time!” Carnival Season doesn’t officially begin until they make their iconic ride through the city.
The Phunny Phorty Phellows have a long history of jest and fun, beginning on Mardi Gras day in 1878 when they organized a rowdy and irreverent parade after the infamous Rex parade. After many twists and turns throughout history, this group now boards a streetcar on Carrollton Avenue and makes ruckus throughout the city, throwing the first Mardi Gras beads of the season and dining on King Cake.
You can catch sight of them anywhere along their route.
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